How I tune
The approach
A great tune makes your car drive right, not just put up a peak number. Here’s how I get there with HP Tuners.
- 1 Reliability
- 2 Drivability
- 3 Performance
Airflow, dialed in tight
I work inside GM’s dynamic airflow model — the VE table and MAF blending together. I don’t settle for “close enough.” I dial airflow in tight so the ECM’s predictions match what the engine is really doing.
When airflow is right, everything downstream gets easier: fueling stays consistent, transitions feel clean, and you’re not fighting the computer.
Fuel trims that stay healthy
I keep fuel trims healthy, consistent, and leaning slightly positive. Stock GM calibrations are often conservative and inefficient in places. I find where the factory left room and gain efficiency without making the car lean or unpredictable.
Limits in a reasonable range
I don’t max out every limit just because the table allows it. Fully pinned values can confuse the computer.
Example: on the GM Gen 3 PCM, max torque is 640 lb-ft. A lot of tuners set it right at 640. I set 639. A maxed-out PCM can suddenly drop the car into limp mode, not just cut wide-open-throttle power. One lb-ft on paper. A stranded car in real life.
Why I don’t automatically chase every last degree
Extra timing can show a small dyno gain, but it adds engine stress. Unless it’s a dedicated race motor, that usually means more maintenance and more ways to break things.
Unless you explicitly ask for it, I’d rather leave a little on the table and have a car that starts, idles, cruises, and pulls hard without living on the edge. Most people don’t want to swap motors every couple of months, so I tune for reliability. That said, I’ll tune it to your liking.
Dynamic airflow, MAF, or speed density
Three ways to calculate airflow. The right one depends on the car.
Dynamic airflow (preferred)
My preferred method of fueling. It keeps the factory torque management and dynamic airflow calculations in play, so the car behaves the way GM designed it to.
MAF
For most street cars I keep the MAF. The ECM sees real airflow through the sensor, so the car stays predictable day to day. (A MAF-only setup isn’t possible; the car still needs a MAP sensor.)
Speed density
Calculates airflow from MAP, RPM, and IAT instead of a MAF. It’s very capable, and some builds need it. Dialed in, the result is excellent either way.
Street tune vs dyno
I do plenty of both. A good street tune lands very close to a dyno tune because the engine is loaded on the real roads and grades you drive.
A dyno tune won’t give you polished drivability. The dyno is for wide-open-throttle performance only, which is less than 1% of your driving. Drivability, my main focus, is the other 99%+.
Dyno tuning is available on request. The shop bills its own rate.
Street session expectations
I come to you anywhere in the Phoenix valley. It takes about 2.5 hours, depending on the car. The car needs to be in good mechanical shape: no leaks, misfires, or vacuum leaks.
Remote logging
Same standards, done remotely. You log the data I ask for, I write the file, and we revise. Payment before the first file is sent. Message me first so I can confirm your setup.
Software
I tune with HP Tuners, the most capable and user-friendly tuning software available.
Questions about your setup?
Text or email me before you buy. I’ll tell you if it’s a fit.